Cambodia is in a perpetual state of mood swings.  It’s an up-and-down sort of place that teases away any sense of normalcy with its extremes.  After traveling through Cambodia last month I fail to find a pretty paper box to wrap it up in.  Just when you want to call it beautiful, it hurls a city slum at you.  Just when you think it’s relaxing, a tuk-tuk plows you over.  The only simple way I can sum up Cambodia is to say that it is a country of “most”; the most exotic, the most poor, the most opulent far past, the most horrific recent history, the most gracious people, the most heart-breaking stories.  Cambodia manages to win most categories for most good and most bad.

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